The Spiritually Uplifting Journey to Rae Bareli
The longing of us humble ones for your abode
Wednesday, the 8th of April, dawned with a gentle and clear sensation. The air in Lucknow carried a light chill of spring, infused with a freshness that subtly prepared the heart for travel. We (myself, Zaid, and Maulana Muhammad Wasiq Nadwi) embarked on a journey that was not merely physical but also carried an intellectual and spiritual allure. As we traveled, fields stretched out, rows of trees, and small towns passed by in a familiar sequence. At times, our conversation veered towards scholarly issues, sometimes discussing the traditions and distinctions of Nadwa, and at other times, silence itself became a meaningful companion.
It was particularly reassuring to note that Nadwa remains steadfast on the principles laid by its founders, which are based on broad-mindedness and leniency in secondary and peripheral matters. At a time when sectarianism was at its peak in India and the market of excommunication and condemnation was thriving, Nadwa raised a balanced and wise voice, asserting that Muslims are fundamentally one and deserving of all respect, and should not be confined to artificial sectarian affiliations. It is also noteworthy that Nadwa still provides formal training in modern Arabic language conversation and writing, enabling its graduates to remain connected with scholarly circles in the Arab world and not fall into alienation.
We arrived in Rae Bareli just before the noon prayer. Upon entering the city, there was a sense of silent dignity. There was no noticeable commotion or outward glitter, yet a serious atmosphere pervaded, as if the city held within it a long scholarly and spiritual history.
Our first stop was Dar Al-Arfat. Upon arrival, we felt an organized and serious academic environment. We visited the library, where both the arrangement of books and the silence represented a special scholarly atmosphere. We also reviewed the offices of research scholars. Although it was the beginning of Shawwal and regular activities had not fully resumed, the academic seriousness of the place was evident.
The greatness of Nadwa lies significantly in the research environment of Dar Al-Musanifeen, which has provided Nadwa with a large group of researchers and writers, sometimes exceeding expectations. The late thinker of Islam established Dar Al-Arfat with the purpose of keeping the tradition of research and writing alive. In this context, it becomes apparent that while there is a trend to establish madrasas everywhere in our society, the awareness of the importance of research and literary institutions is relatively weak, affecting the depth of knowledge and breadth of thought.
We then visited Madrasah Zia Al-Uloom. The scene here was a blend of simplicity and seriousness. Students were diligently engaged in their studies, and under the supervision of teachers, a systematic educational system was in place. The discipline and academic dignity of the institution were prominent, reflecting its strong tradition.
Next, we proceeded to Takiya, which holds a prominent position among the scholarly and spiritual centers of Rae Bareli. It is a place where a living tradition of knowledge and spirituality has been maintained for a long time. We stayed in the guesthouse of Takiya, the same guesthouse where Maulana Abul Hasan Ali Nadwi and Maulana Syed Muhammad Rabey Hasani used to reside. This association has endowed the place with a special dignity and significance. As soon as we set foot there, it felt as if the atmosphere of the past was once again palpable. At that moment, a line of poetry spontaneously came to mind: “The pulse of the patient has come into the hand of Jesus.”
Another aspect becomes evident here. Generally, the image of a “Maulvi” conjures up a stern, harsh, and narrow-minded personality, but the residents of Takiya negate this notion. They embody gentleness, simplicity, reticence, purity of vision, and clarity of heart—a combination that reflects the true religious temperament.
There are many lessons of my own training associated with this place. One incident remains fresh in my mind. Once, I was sitting very close to Maulana Rabey. There was no one else in the room, and Maulana was conversing with me. During this time, someone came and sat behind me, but I was unaware of it. My heart was in such a state that “Your grace has made me audacious.” After a while, Maulana gently and kindly drew my attention to not sit in a way that would obstruct someone.
The manner in which he said this became so ingrained in my heart that it remains to this day. Now, whenever I sit in a gathering, I unconsciously ensure that I do not become an obstacle for anyone. The truth is that these small things are the essence of true training, which is not obtained merely from books but from the company of the learned.
During this time, we met Maulana Bilal Nazim Nadwi. His face was radiant, his heart clear, and his nature reflected the continuity of his forefathers’ tradition. His conversation was marked by seriousness and balance. We discussed various religious, educational, and social topics, particularly the training of students, the impact of modern media, and the responsibilities of institutions. His words conveyed the maturity of experience and depth of thought.
We offered the noon prayer at the mosque of Takiya, which is not merely a place of worship but a site of historical continuity. Performing prayer here revived many memories, especially those days when attending here during the lives of the elders was a blessing. Worship at this place evokes a profound internal state.
After the prayer, we visited the graves of several elders in the cemetery of Rae Bareli, including Hazrat Abul Hasan Ali Nadwi, Maulana Rabey, Maulana Wazeh, Maulana Abdullah Hasani, Maulana Hamza Hasani, Maulana Jafar Masood Hasani, and other scholars. This visit was a silent yet impactful experience. The lives, services, and scholarly legacy of these personalities were refreshed in the mind, deepening the realization that true wealth lies in knowledge, sincerity, and service. In this state, a couplet emerged in the heart:
“The essence of the Divine is eternal,
All else is transient.”
Afterward, we had lunch with Maulana Bilal Nazim. This gathering was simple yet purposeful. The conversation included educational issues, the mental training of students, and the effects of modern technology. The atmosphere was serious, yet there was an intellectual flow that prevented the conversation from becoming burdensome.
After lunch, we rested for a while. This break provided necessary tranquility after the day’s activities.
In the evening, we visited the home of dear ones Khalil and Amin Hasani, the sons of Maulana Syed Jafar Masood Hasani, for tea. The environment here was informal yet courteous. The conversation was both familiar and serious, and this gathering provided a pleasant conclusion to the day’s experiences.
A little before five o’clock, we set off for Lucknow. At that time, the heart felt a mix of “the affliction of separation from Layla and the company of Layla,” meaning there was both a sense of separation and the joy of meeting. During the return journey, the day’s scenes, conversations, and meetings continued to revolve in the mind.
This journey to Rae Bareli was not merely a brief visit but a multifaceted experience, where knowledge, tradition, association, and companionship came together. It was a day that will not only be remembered but will continue to grow in significance over time.
